|
The
"seven fires" of Lent commemorate the resulting
blaze to this day.
The
residents of the brothel, however, were not purged by
the fire; they instead simply moved to rue St-Nicolas
where they continued to practice their art until 1990.
The
gardener from the Celestine convent - whose name remains
unknown - purchased the ruins not long after the fire,
and dug six trenches to make bark tanning baths, which
he lined with flat stones. These tanning baths were
located under the central kitchen and the bar in L'Espièglerie.
Eight more baths were dug under the "Tanneurs de
Namur" hall and tavern.
The
trenches themselves were demolished in 1986, and the
stones re-used to build the stairway in the "Kurbali"
room and the windowsills in the "Leanza" room.
The
trenches for bark tanning were initially built outside,
but gave off such a stench that the merchants in St-Nicolas
and neighbouring streets saw their commerce suffer,
inversely proportional to the growing (but nauseating)
tanning trade. Conflict divided the two groups.
The
'Tanneries war' did not last long, however: Ferdinand
"Le Galant", son of the Celestine gardener,
became enamoured of Rosalie de Boneffe, one of the ladies
in the rue St-Nicolas. (Rosalie de Boneffe claimed that
she was 'honoured' by the Duke of Marlborough the evening
before the battle of Ramillies! )
Thanks
to Rosalie, merchants and tanners were able to reach
a compromise and work together to build a structure
around the tannin baths, which became the picturesque
Tanners' Quarter. The odour of the tannin remained impregnated
in the walls, however, and the commerce of Rue St-Nicolas
prospered in the shadow of Notre-Dame.
The
tanneries of Ferdinand "Le Galant" rapidly
gained international renown. His calfskins, so thin
and yet so strong, graced the fastest sailing ships.
The
tanneries' day of glory was certainly May 20th (St-Bernadin),
1682, when Vauban (travelling incognito) stopped at
place L'Ilon. The rue des Tanneries being too narrow
for his equipment, he went up the narrow street on foot
to buy some high-quality animal skins for the Sun King's
royal headquarters during the siege of Namur.
Ferdinand
"Le Galant" was known for producing animal
skins that were waterproofed with a secret technique.
The season had been so wet that it was the rain, and
not the early summer sun, that concerned the Sun King.
Modern
techniques aside, Ferdinand "Le Galant" was
a republican and no supporter of the French king. Guessing
that his client belonged to the other camp, he tricked
Vauban by selling him worthless skins that had not been
waterproofed.
He
demanded his payment in Gulden, slighting his client
by refusing to accept the Louis, and - although there
is no corroboration for his story - claimed that he
himself tipped the coachman into the reeking Houyoux
from the wooden bridge that led to the tannery.
The
skins fell in the water and were cleaned only poorly
by the French soldiers in the Sambre river, in a shallow
passage near Floreffe.
Racine ( acting as war correspondent) notes on May 27
1682:
"The
King came out of his quarters
And despite the rain and the gun fire
Preferred the smell of powder
To the smell of his royal ...."
"
Notre Roy Louis sortit du cabanon "
" Maugré (sic) la pluie et le tir du canon
"
" Préférant l'odeur de la poudre
"
" A la senteur de sa royale
"
The
story about the fall in the Hoyoux spread quickly around
Namur and Ferdinand "Le Galant" came to be
better known as Ferdinand "L'Espiègle"
("The Clever").
In
the 20th century, another clever fellow - but a little
less gallant - closed 6 of the brothels. We do not know
if he planned to close the two remaining buildings in
Rue St-Nicolas as well, buildings who stand as witnesses
to an often unhappy past...
And,
as in the time of the Celestine nuns, the fervent partisans
of this moralizing movement set their own cleansing
fires in 1987, 1991 and 1993, but the quick and efficient
work of the Namur fire department stopped history from
repeating itself. The Namur police have never investigated
these criminal fires, a grave insult to the memory of
our clever republican.
Les
Tanneurs de Namur (renovated from 1980 to 1991) is a
monument to the glory of Wallonia, but also and above
all a tribute to the craftspeople of the 17th and 20th
centuries. The journeymen of the 20th century who worked
to restore the site are truly exceptional artists.
They
deserve to be named honourable citizens of Namur, city
to which they have given the best of themselves, inspiring
perhaps jealousy, contempt and anger from a few, but
giving satisfaction and happiness to many others. One
day, perhaps, the municipal administration will come
to terms with the history of its marginalized "Espiègle",
to which it continues to refuse adequate municipal signage
- thus penalizing visitors to the beautiful region of
Wallonia.
The
renovation project for "Les Tanneurs de Namur"
barely survived. The government almost triumphed over
the lovers of Wallonia and its gorgeous historical stone
structures. The unsubsidized renovation of Les Tanneurs
de Namur was a long and arduous task...
|